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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.